The Shepherds Huts featured in our build gallery all included wool insulation, as can be seen above; though there are many other options available. Our customers often use Celotex or Rock Wool. Whichever insulation you choose, it needs to fill the 80mm wall-insulation cavity, created by the frame. Our frame creates a grid-like structure, so you will need to cut your insulation to size in order to fit the spaces.
Once your internal cladding and insulation are in place, you will need to seal the insulation cavity. We recommend screw-fixing 9mm OSB board to the exterior of the frame.
Though other materials can be used, OSB is typically one of the more cost-effective building boards. This layer increases the huts overall rigidity.
A weatherproof breather membrane should sit between the OSB layer and external cladding. This layer ensures that your hut is waterproof, wind-resistant and breathable. Breather membranes are available in roles, so you’ll need to cut vertical strips to the height of the hut, fixing these directly to the layer of OSB.
In our build gallery we have used Tyvek Housewrap for our membrane. The final layer of your shepherd hut walls is the exterior cladding. The material you choose for this is down to personal preference, but we find there is about a 50/50 split between preference for tin and timber cladding.
Your exterior cladding should sit outside of the breather membrane, secured to the OSB layer. If you are using corrugated tin you will need to fit the cladding with Tek screws at regular intervals, drilling through the sheets into the OSB layer. Timber shiplap cladding can be secured in the same way, using nails at regular intervals along the wall of the hut.