We’ve divided the next section into three parts, to address the anatomy of the shepherd hut’s roof, walls and floor.
You can tackle these in whichever order best suits your project, but don’t forget to cut out space in your frame and internal/external cladding for doors and windows beforehand. You should also take in to account any wiring or plumbing before sealing the frame’s insulation cavity.
The roof of your shepherd hut should comprise of four layers: internal cladding, insulation, a breathable membrane and external cladding (corrugated iron roof sheets).
We recommend using tongue and groove match-board for your internal ceiling cladding. This can be sourced from any good timber yard, and neatly attaches to the internal curvature of the roof frame, attaching with discretely placed nails.
When you’ve fitted the ceiling, you can set your insulation on top of it. Our frame creates a 100mm insulation cavity, so the majority of insulation products will be suitable for this. We’d recommend Rock Wool (or something similar), as it can fill the cavity, while curving with the shape of the roof.
Before you attach your roof sheets to the exterior of the frame, you’ll need a breathable membrane. We’d recommend Tyvek Breather Membrane (or something similar). Simply create a complete covering over the roof section of the frame and insulation, fixing it neatly and securely to the roof’s arches with staples or brad nails.
Now that you’ve got your internal cladding, insulation and membrane in place you can add your roof’s exterior. If you’ve purchased roof sheets from us, you can fix these using Tek screws, screwed firmly into the arches of the frame. We recommend overlapping your roof sheets by 1-2 ridges at a time.
Key points…
- Our frame is pre-drilled along the center of the ceiling, enabling wiring for lights to run along the ceiling cavity.
- Our corrugated roof sheets aren’t essential to your shepherd hut, but they are a great option as they are pre-curved to our frame’s profile.